Used cars are generally less expensive than new ones. There are a few other incentives associated with buying a used car like: It will save you money on car insurance, registration, taxes and depreciation (loss in a car’s value due to wear and tear over time). However, choosing the best option is nothing short of a treasure hunt.
It is advisable to research the cars you are interested in buying before you enter the market for a final purchase.
You can check our blog post on ‘How to buy a used car’ for points to be considered before buying a used car.
Once you are sure about the brand and budget of your used car purchase, before visiting a dealer keep this checklist handy. This checklist on how to inspect a used car will guide you in your search. Don’t forget to ask each and every question mentioned in the list. Follow the sequence as given and analyze each and every answer properly.
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Once you complete the inspection of the car, check the Vehicle History Report.
Note: Spoken promises are difficult to enforce. Hence, always ask your dealer for written promises.
The car basics |
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Vehicle Name: |
Model: |
Year: |
Price Quoted |
Trade in Value |
Dealer Stock Number (Optional) |
VIN Number: |
Warranties for the vehicle: |
________ AS IS – No Warranty (You will pay all cost for any repairs) |
Warranty (Limited Warranty) |
____________________ No ____________ Full __________________________ Limited Warranty |
Details of limited warranty – |
Duration Covered – |
List of Major defects that you should inspect |
Frame and Body |
Dents |
Scratches |
Bent or twisted frame |
Windshield (Chips or Cracks) |
Headlights (Foggy) |
Rusty brake rotors |
Inspection sticker current |
Wheels |
Tire tread deoth less than 2/32 inch |
Size of all 4 tires are same? |
Visible wheel damage |
Visible cracks, damages or repairs |
Mounting bolts loose or missing |
Engine |
Looking for oil leakage (excluding normal seepage) |
Check carefully for a cracked block or head |
Missing belts, inoperable knocks or any misses related to camshaft lifters and pushrods |
Abnormal exhaust discharge |
Transmission |
Check for abnormal noise or vibration. Mostly such vibration is caused by faulty transmission or drive shaft. |
Look for improper shifting or functioning in any gear |
See for manual clutch slips or chatters |
Cooling System |
Checking for leakage including a radiator |
Check the functioning of water pump |
Electrical System |
Battery leakage |
Check the functioning of the alternator, battery, generator or starter |
Fuel System |
Any visible leakage |
Inoperable Accessories |
Check the heater, defroster and air conditioner |
Gauges or warning devices |
Brake System |
Check for failure warning, also check whether the light is broken |
Pedal not firm under pressure or Not enough pedal reserve |
Rotor too thin or Hoses damaged Drum |
Lining or pad thickness should be 1/32 inch |
Power unit not operating or leaking |
Check for any structural or mechanical parts damaged |
Steering System |
The steering wheel should not be too much free |
Steering gear should not bind or jam |
Check, if the front wheels are aligned improperly |
Power unit belts should not be cracked or slipping |
Check the level of power unit fluid |
Suspension System |
Check the ball joint seals, spring |
Structural parts, stabilizer shouldn’t be bent or damaged |
Check the functioning of shock absorber |
Radius rod should not be damaged |
Interior |
Check the rips on seats |
Headliner (It should not be saggy) |
Under the car |
Any leaks near the engine, rear diff |
Check rust on body, exhaust,frame etc. |
Suspension(axle, shocks, tie rods and ball joints) |
Frame Damage (from collision) |
Ask the owner |
Any service records, documents, how often are you servicing the car? |
What did you use the car for? |
How many miles did you put on it when you owned it? |
What car are you looking to get now? Why? |